Journal
Pigment study
Formulating vermilion: a year of hand-mixed red
03 May 2026 · 7 min read · By Mireille Vaux

In 2024 I set myself a rule: one hand-mixed shade a day, swatched on white card, dated and filed. By the end of the year there were 212 cards and one red I kept returning to.
Why vermilion
It flatters almost every undertone because it sits between orange and blue-red. Sheered out it reads as flush; packed on it reads as fashion.
“A signature shade is just the colour you stopped being bored of.”
The base recipe
- 01Two parts cosmetic-grade red iron oxide
- 02One part warm orange lake
- 03A drop of mixing medium per gram
- 04Pressed with a spatula on a steel palette, never a brush
The full study will be exhibited at the studio next spring.
Next entry
The bride who cried twice (and the makeup that held)