Mireille Vaux
Journal
Pigment study

Formulating vermilion: a year of hand-mixed red

03 May 2026 · 7 min read · By Mireille Vaux

Formulating vermilion: a year of hand-mixed red

In 2024 I set myself a rule: one hand-mixed shade a day, swatched on white card, dated and filed. By the end of the year there were 212 cards and one red I kept returning to.

Why vermilion

It flatters almost every undertone because it sits between orange and blue-red. Sheered out it reads as flush; packed on it reads as fashion.

“A signature shade is just the colour you stopped being bored of.”

The base recipe

  • 01Two parts cosmetic-grade red iron oxide
  • 02One part warm orange lake
  • 03A drop of mixing medium per gram
  • 04Pressed with a spatula on a steel palette, never a brush

The full study will be exhibited at the studio next spring.

Next entry

The bride who cried twice (and the makeup that held)